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Cut is the factor that determines the brilliance of a diamond. Most people confuse cut with the shape of a diamond. A classic round brilliant cut diamond has 58 facets - 33 on the top, 24 on the bottom and the culet (1 point at the bottom - another tiny facet ). Each of the stone's facets must be placed by the diamond cutter in exact geometric relation to one another. Quality diamonds must be properly cut and not "spread", which means that the proper proportions are compromised to make the stone weigh more. The shape of the diamond, however, is largely a matter of personal preference and does not directly affect the value.
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Proportion refers to the angles and relative measurements of a polished diamond. More than any other feature, proportions determine a diamond's optical properties. Studies have shown that table size, crown angle, and pavilion depth have a dramatic effect on a diamond's appearance. Symmetry is a grading term for the exactness of shape and placement of facets. Variations in symmetry include off-center culets and tables, poor facet alignment, misshapen facets, out-of-round girdles, and wavy girdles.
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When a ray of light touches the surface of a diamond, part of the light is reflected back, this is external reflection
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The rest of the ray penetrates the stone and is then reflected towards the center of the diamond. This is known as refraction.
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The ray of light is reflected to the surface, where it is seen as colors of the spectrum. This is known as dispersion.
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